Monday 9 July 2012

The Temples of Ancient Angkor...

The ruins of Angkor Wat were rediscovered in 1860 by a French botanist, Henri Mouhot, who was exploring the Cambodian jungles. This lost civilization was of great interest to Western archaeologists and historians who flocked to the site to learn more about the Khmer. Before the ruins were found, even the locals thought the existence of the temple city was likely a myth. Some who had seen the city said that it had been built by the Gods themselves.
This is my trip through the ancient temples of Angkor...
1st stop: The East Baray

Pre Rup - firstly the sheer size of these temples is just mind blowing. Secondly, its almost unbelievable that over 1000 years ago these temples were built. Pre Rup was the State Temple and was built by King Rajendravarman in the East Baray, which was his capital.  

Steps, steps and more steps...how did they manage to move these huge rocks and build these enormous structures without heavy machinery...boggles the mind. 

Driving between temples...this is what the scenery looks like. 

Banteay Srei Temple - meaning "Citadel of the Women". This temple is described as the "Jewel of Khmer Art", as it compares with little else in Angkor. It is a temple of great intricate detail and beauty. The near total decoration of its surfaces is exceptional. 

The most incredible thing about this temple is that depth of the decoration, some of the foliage is virtually three dimensional. 

Truly spectacular...all the carvings tell some sort of mythical story...I could write for days trying to tell you what everything means...so if you are really interested...GOOGLE it or buy a book!

In case you wondered what it looks like on the back of a tuk tuk...there it is!

3rd stop - Banteay Samre was built in the first half of the 12th century. 

It is said that Banteay Samre enclosed a reasonably sized town as well as a temple at its heart...let this be an idea as to the magnitude and size of these places. 

The cruciform terrace with the guardian lions.

Ta Som is referred to by the Preah Khan inscription as Gaurasrigajaratna - "The jewel of the propitious white elephant" and according to this, it should have housed 22 divinities. 


The face tower covered by a strangler fig tree...absolutely amazing! It looks like they built the temple inside the roots of the tree.

Something from a fairy tale...it owes its charm to the combination of remoteness, it's semi-ruined state and face-towers.

Face-towers as in, there is a face carved into the top of the tower...will show you close-ups as we go through!

4th Stop - East Mebon was built in the middle of the 10th Century and falls under the section of the East Baray. There are 8 elephant sculptures, 2 at each of the 4 corners. 

Looking from the bottom up to the top. East Mebon was not initially built as a temple, it only acquired its divinity at a later stage. It was initially built as a reservoir, it is capable of holding 55 million cubic meters of water.  

Driving along to the next temple, in the sweltering heat, on dodgy roads, in a tuk tuk with zero suspension...Anyway, its so worth it...the next temple is where they filmed Tomb Raider...

Ta Prohm...Amazing! Strangler figs and silk-cotton trees entwined among the ruins. 

Ta Prohm was a Temple  Monastery. It's original name was Rajavihara "the royal monastery". In the initial plan, 260 divinities were called for, many more were added later.

Walking through the corridors of the temple. It takes at least an hour to walk through everything. The outer wall measures 1km east to west and is certainly big enough to house the 12 640 people 
mentioned in the temple's inscription.

This temple was chosen by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient to be left in its "natural state" as an example of how most of Angkor looked on its discovery. 

The trees create the atmosphere of the temple. 

They are amazing...you may remember this tree from the movie...sorry the pic is a little "illuminated" - I was having issues with my camera...all sorted now...don't worry!

Look at the size of this root! 

Apparently these trees become supporting blocks for the buildings, and when they die or there are monsoons, the trees fall and loosen the blocks. The prominent trees are only temporary features. 

Me at Banteay Srei

Me at Ta Som - I Love Cambodia T-shirt! 

Me trying to bargain outside one of the temples...these poor kids...they make Christmas decorations out of pine leaves and they are so intricate and beautiful...I bought some! 

Cheap cheap! Some of the people are so poor. My heart goes out to these poor children...


Day one over...exhausted...tomorrow we start at 4:30 and we do the incredible Angkor Wat...

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